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05 March 2008

Pretty hospital gowns - instructions

Fabric -- Cut crossways, each gown takes 1.70 metres of 115cm fabric with an all-over pattern. Use a lightweight cotton, and prewash. For a one-way pattern, fold the fabric lengthways; you'll need about 2.5 metres.

Pattern -- The front pattern piece, without seam allowance, measures 90cm long at centre, 7cm across at the neck to sleeve seam and 31cm at the underarm, which is 24cm down from the neck. There's a slight (1.5cm) shaping below the underarm and the neck rises 2.5cm to the shoulder. The sleeve seam, which is at a 45 degree angle, is 36cm long. The bottom measures 39cm. The back has an extra 4cm in width all the way up, so it's 11cm at the neck and 43cm at bottom.

The sleeve is 41cm across the bottom and flares slightly to measure 47cm between underarm seams. It is 37cm high and measures cm from seam to seam at the neck, where it measures 6cm across. The seam has a steeper angle than on the body pieces.

Exact measurements aren't crucial as the gown has no "fit" as such - it just has to be roomy enough to get on and off easily.

Layout --In addition to the front (place on fold), back, and sleeve, you need a bias strip for facing the neck; cut this 4cm wide. You can usually cut it beside the sleeve seam of the front or back, by positioning the sleeve carefully. This strip will extend to make the neck ties, so cut it at least 50cm long, piecing if necessary. Waist ties are probably not necessary for someone who's bedridden, but can be cut 20cm or longer and later added 30cm down from the neck.

Construction -- I use french seams and add 1.5cm seams for these. You can of course serge/overlock the seams - and make it in half the time!

Sew all sleeve seams - for french seams, a narrow seam with wrong sides together, then press to one side, turn right sides together and sew wider seam.

Sew side seams - clipping the narrow seam at underarm is helpful when making french seams.

Turn a narrow hem on sleeves, back, and bottom.

Pin the bias strip to the neck, stretching it slightly, and sew .Turn and pin so there's extra fabric on the inside. Sew from the right side, "in the ditch"; continue along the ties - fold the fabric to the centre, so there are 4 layers, and stretch the ties as you sew.

Now for the finishing touch - closely zigzag over the line of stitching in a matching colour. If you've used a different colour of bobbin thread and it shows slightly, you can edge the satin stitch with straight stitching.
Of course you can add other kinds of embroidery too.

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